Chicago’s Best Shrimp Dish: Spilled Milk #317
My version of a classic: garlicky, buttery Shrimp DeJonghe.
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This has been one of the most incredible food weeks of my life, and this post is the result. Taking a historically important recipe—one that was famously reworked several times since the 1890s—and being so disappointed in all the recipes I found that I reworked it and came up with something magical. A chef’s dream. It’s what cooking is all about for me.
For 30 years I was a huge fan of Morton’s The Steakhouse. Up until the last 10 years when independent steakhouses began to push out some of the old chains, Morton’s was the best of the best. And one of the only luxe chains to serve dry-aged prime beef along with superb starters and steakhouse sides. I loved the Minneapolis location, and it was easily the best steakhouse in our entire state. Service was amazing, food was spectacular, and the ambience was divine—even though it was in a basement of an office building! Over the years, the best steakhouses are now independents, from 4 Charles in New York City to Bazaar Meat in Las Vegas and Chicago to Wolfgang Puck’s Cut, which was the first of it’s kind (of course Wolf was the trailblazing leader in the idea of remaking the classic American steakhouse) and all the way up to the most recent opening, Daniel Boulud’s incredible new spot La Tete D’or. All of these restaurants are superb.
One dish I used to order all the time at Morton’s was the Shrimp DeJonghe because it was a shareable appetizer. I never thought to research the dish until I decided to dedicate this week to the city of Chicago. I started to delve into the historical dishes that make up Chicago food history, and there was Shrimp DeJonghe. Fascinatingly, the old historically accurate recipe is in many ways more appealing, lighter and tastier than the conventional recipe that started to be cooked over time at so many different restaurants in Chicago and around the country. After I played around with this recipe for a while, I realized that the shrimp would always be overcooked. The sauce would always be broken—delicious but broken—breadcrumbs were tough, and the flavors weren’t bold enough. So I decided just to break it down into its parts, and I find that I’ve now perfected a recipe that I think you will love. By treating the breadcrumbs separately from the shrimp and not cooking them together, you come out with a delicious garlicky, buttery, herby, smooth sauce bound around perfectly slow-cooked tender shrimp with a wonderful dome of seasoned breadcrumbs on top, the essence of great Shrimp DeJonghe.
Shrimp DeJonghe is one of Chicago’s oldest and most distinctive culinary creations, dating back to the late 19th century. The dish was invented by the DeJonghe brothers—Henri, Pierre and Charles—Belgian immigrants who operated the DeJonghe Hotel and Restaurant at 12 East Monroe Street during the 1893 World's Columbian Exposition. Originally intended as a practical, luxurious dish to highlight seafood, Shrimp DeJonghe became famous for its rich garlic-butter flavor and comforting, contrasting breadcrumb topping. By the early 20th century, it had spread to other iconic Chicago restaurants such as Fritzel’s and The Berghoff. Fritzel’s, a posh Loop restaurant, was especially famous for its rendition, often serving Shrimp DeJonghe to celebrities and dignitaries until it closed in the 1970s. Though the dish waned in popularity during the later 20th century, a few Chicago stalwarts kept the tradition alive. Today, classic establishments such as Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House and some old-school supper clubs occasionally feature Shrimp DeJonghe on their menus, keeping the buttery, garlicky tradition intact. Despite its quieter presence, it remains a beloved symbol of Chicago’s early dining scene—an edible time capsule linking back to the Gilded Age grandeur of downtown Chicago.
Here are some restaurants that still serve the dish today in Chicago. Any errors or omissions are mine alone.
Gene & Georgetti (500 N Franklin St, Chicago, IL) – Shrimp DeJonghe: “jumbo shrimp, Italian breadcrumb & garlic sauce.” Notes: A longtime house specialty at Chicago’s oldest steakhouse, their recipe has been perfected over decades. Menu.
Chicago Chop House (60 W Ontario St., Chicago, IL) – Shrimp DeJonghe: “Garlic, Herbs, Sherry, Butter.” (Broiled shrimp in a garlic-herb sherry butter sauce.) Notes: A classic steakhouse in a Victorian brownstone, offering an old-school preparation true to the original recipe. Menu.
Hugo’s Frog Bar & Fish House (1024 N Rush St., Chicago, IL) – Shrimp DeJonghe: “White wine, garlic butter & bread crumbs.” Notes: This famed seafood steakhouse (part of Gibsons Group) showcases the native Chicago dish in its traditional form, succulent baked shrimp in garlic butter breadcrumbs. Menu.
Joe’s Seafood, Prime Steak & Stone Crab (60 E Grand Ave., Chicago, IL) – Shrimp DeJonghe: A classic Chicago-style baked shrimp appetizer topped with garlicky, sherry-laced breadcrumbs. Notes: Featured as a warm appetizer on Joe’s menu, paying homage to a historic local dish amid Joe’s extensive seafood and steak offerings. Menu.
Carson’s (465 E Illinois St., Chicago, IL) – Shrimp DeJonghe: “Carson’s Old School Classic Chicago Shrimp DeJonghe recipe. 5 sautéed jumbo shrimp, garlic, white wine, fluffy whipped bread crumbs.” Notes: A house specialty at this 1970s-era restaurant known for BBQ. They serve an “old-school” rendition of Shrimp DeJonghe (available as an appetizer or dinner), underscoring its status as a Chicago classic. Menu.
Expat (165 N Ogden Ave., Chicago, IL) – Garlic Shrimp DeJonghe: “Chicago DeJonghe Style, Jalapeño Butter, Breadcrumb.” Notes: A new West Loop restaurant and bar that honors Chicago’s culinary history with a spicy twist on Shrimp DeJonghe. Jalapeño-infused butter gives this version a modern kick. Menu.
And sadly, Morton’s no longer serves the dish according to their current menu.
Shrimp DeJonghe has always been a decadent casserole featuring large, tender shrimp nestled under a thick, golden blanket of seasoned breadcrumbs infused with copious amounts of garlic, butter and sherry or white wine. The shrimp are baked until the breadcrumbs crisp at the edges, creating a contrast between the crunchy topping and the succulent seafood beneath. Rich and aromatic, the dish is often served piping hot in individual ramekins or shallow gratin dishes, sometimes finished with a squeeze of lemon. Its flavor is boldly buttery and garlicky yet delicately balanced by herbs such as parsley and subtle notes of wine, offering old-world opulence in every bite.
Based on historic sources (including the Palmer House archives, Chicago Historical Society and more resources), here's the way it’s been cooked for the last 75 years.
I don’t like it at all and don’t like the way it turned out. Too much butter. So much about this dish was lacking. I include it so you can see my thought process in changing it.
Recipe: Classic Shrimp DeJonghe
Serves 4
Ingredients:
1 ½ lbs. large shrimp (16–20 count), peeled and deveined
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 ½ cups fresh breadcrumbs (preferably from white bread, no crusts)
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh parsley
2 tablespoons dry sherry (or dry white wine)
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
½ teaspoon paprika
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Optional: pinch of cayenne pepper for slight heat
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Prepare the butter mixture: In a large bowl, cream the softened butter until fluffy. Add the minced garlic, parsley, sherry, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, paprika, salt and pepper. Mix thoroughly.
Prepare the breadcrumbs: Fold the breadcrumbs into the butter mixture gently until fully incorporated.
Assemble the dish: Lightly butter a shallow baking dish (or four individual ramekins). Arrange the shrimp in a single layer. Evenly spread the breadcrumb-butter mixture over the shrimp.
Bake uncovered for about 15–20 minutes or until the shrimp turn pink and the breadcrumb topping is golden brown and crisp.
Optional finishing: Broil briefly for 1–2 minutes at the end if a more deeply browned crust is desired.
Serve hot, with lemon wedges and parsley garnish if desired.
Key Authentic Notes:
Garlic and sherry are non-negotiable—both are defining flavors.
Fresh breadcrumbs are crucial for the fluffy, tender topping.
Softened butter, not melted, ensures the breadcrumbs stay light, not soggy.
Dry sherry was historically used; modern recipes sometimes swap for dry white wine, but sherry is truer to the original.
The dish should be rich, garlicky, buttery but never greasy.
Recipe: 1890s DeJonghe-Style
This is the original 1890’s DeJonghe-style version taken from a 1910 cookbook of Chicago hotel dishes and handwritten records associated with the DeJonghe Hotel. It's simpler but captures the soul of the dish perfectly. Here's the OG version:
Ingredients:
1 lb. large shrimp, cleaned
½ cup butter (softened)
1 cup dry breadcrumbs (hand-crushed)
2–3 cloves garlic, very finely minced
2 tablespoons dry sherry
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon lemon juice
Pinch of salt
Dash of white pepper (not black)
Pinch of cayenne pepper (optional)
Boil the shrimp lightly in salted water for 1–2 minutes (they should be just starting to curl, not fully cooked). Drain well.
Mix butter, garlic, parsley, lemon juice, sherry, salt, white pepper and cayenne (if using) until smooth and aromatic.
Fold the breadcrumbs gently into the butter mixture.
Arrange the blanched shrimp in a buttered baking dish (single layer).
Spread the butter-crumb mixture evenly over the shrimp.
Bake in a hot oven (then considered about 375–400 degrees) until shrimp are tender and crumbs are golden—about 10–12 minutes.
Serve immediately, garnished with parsley sprigs and lemon slices.
Historical differences:
Shrimp were lightly pre-poached before baking, not raw.
White pepper was used instead of black for a milder flavor.
The breadcrumb topping was lighter and less heavy, more crumbly.
No Worcestershire sauce or paprika yet—those were 1930s additions!
This version feels slightly lighter and fresher to me than today’s richer restaurant versions. It was meant as a showy, elegant appetizer for hotel dining rooms. But it was far from perfect for today’s food style.
Here is my version.
Recipe: AZ’s Shrimp DeJonghe
Serves 4 as an appetizer or 2 as an entree
The Breadcrumbs
6 slices of brioche, torn
1 garlic clove, sliced
Tarragon, thyme and parsley, chopped
3 tablespoons softened butter
1 teaspoon hot sauce
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
Salt and pepper
1 teaspoon smoked paprika
Combine, pulsing in a food processor.
Spread on a baking sheet. Place in a preheated 375 degree oven.
When placed there, please lower the heat to 350 degrees. Stir every few minutes to dry out and promote even browning.
Remove when toasted and reserve.
The Shrimp
1 lb. or 15 shrimp, peeled and deveined
6 tablespoons butter, divided in half
4 garlic cloves, sliced thin
1/3 cup sherry
Juice of 1 lemon
¼ cup white wine
2 teaspoons smoked paprika
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
3-5 whole hot dried peppers (arbols are great)
¼ cup minced parsley
2 tablespoons minced tarragon
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
Add half the butter to a pan over very low heat. When melted, add all the herbs, garlic, chili peppers and paprika.
Sauté for several minutes to heat through. You don’t want any foaming butter or sizzling.
Add the shrimp. Stir, raise heat to low and slowly cook for 1-2 minutes.
Add the sherry, wine and half the lemon. Do not simmer the sauce.
Cook slowly for 10-12 minutes until shrimp is JUST cooked through, remove to bowls for serving.
Raise heat to medium high. Reduce sauce until thickened and no longer watery.
Add the remaining butter off heat, stirring to emulsify. Taste for seasoning. Add the last of the lemon, swirl and divide sauce over the shrimp. Top with a pile of the breadcrumbs and serve.
