Grandma’s Hot, Steamy Secret; The Magic of Stuffed Cabbage: Spilled Milk #301

The sausage, the leeks, the potatoes: This dish is just ridiculously good.

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Grandma knows best. I have learned more over the last 50 years of cooking from grandmothers than from any other single source I can think of. Call it timeless, call it comfort food, call it delicious, whatever you like, I think stuffed cabbage is one of the world’s greatest food solutions to the eternal quandary, “what’s for dinner?”

Stuffed cabbage isn’t just a soggy, over-cooked, rice-infused, unseasoned meat tube rolled in a listless wrapping of flavorless head cabbage picked months ago on a factory farm. While I have eaten my fair share of that dish (and liked some of them), the world of stuffed cabbage is broad, roomy, inclusive and loaded with flavor while still honoring the honesty of it’s genealogy. A little perspective is in order.

Stuffed cabbage is a beloved dish with deep historical roots and significant cultural relevance across many regions of the world. Its origins can be traced back to both the Middle East and Eastern Europe. That’s where it evolved into a hearty, economical meal made from simple, widely available ingredients. Over the centuries, different cultures adapted the dish, incorporating regional flavors and variations that remain popular today.

Food scholars believe the earliest versions of stuffed cabbage likely originated in the Middle East, where cooks wrapped seasoned meats and grains in grape leaves, a technique that later influenced similar dishes using cabbage. The dish traveled westward and was embraced in Eastern Europe, particularly among what are now Jewish, Polish, Hungarian and Russian communities. In these regions, stuffed cabbage—gołąbki in Poland, holubtsi in Ukraine, and sarma in the Balkans—became a staple food, especially in colder climates where cabbage was one of the few vegetables available year-round.

Jewish communities popularized the dish further, especially among Ashkenazi Jews, who brought their variations to North America. That was my family’s story. My grandmother’s stuffed cabbage recipes included sweet-and-sour tomato-based sauces, a nod to our Eastern European heritage—and not lost on me, a flavor profile that always reminds me of Italian and Chinese sweet/sour dishes.

Stuffed cabbage is a part of many cultural traditions and celebrations. In Poland, it is a common dish at weddings, Christmas Eve feasts and other family gatherings. Ukrainian and Russian households prepare holubtsi for major holidays and religious observances. Growing up, stuffed cabbage was eaten at Simchat Torah, a holiday celebrating the completion of the Torah reading cycle.

The dish is also ubiquitous in Middle Eastern and Mediterranean cuisines. In Turkey, Greece and Lebanon, sarma is a popular version, often made with lamb and flavored with spices such as cinnamon and allspice. Romanian stuffed cabbage is called sarmale, a signature dish for Christmas and New Year’s feasts.

Stuffed cabbage is a true global phenomenon, rightfully lionized for its comforting, home-cooked appeal. It’s a labor of love, and because of that, we see adaptations in our contemporary cuisine, with chefs experimenting with plant-based fillings, third culture flavors and alternative cooking methods of all kinds. The dish has enduring popularity, attributed to its versatility, affordability and deep cultural significance. Regardless of where you eat it, stuffed cabbage remains a beloved dish that connects generations and cultures through its rich, flavorful history.

Stuffed cabbage is most commonly associated with Eastern Europe, the Middle East and Ashkenazi cuisine. That’s true, but it is also found in the culinary traditions of countries we don’t typically associate with the dish, such as Italy and Japan. These regions have adapted the concept in unique ways, integrating their own ingredients and flavors.

Though Italy is not widely known for stuffed cabbage, the dish does exist there in regional variations, particularly in the north, where cabbage is more commonly grown and used in cooking. The Italian version, often called involtini di verza (savoy cabbage rolls), is popular in Lombardy and Piedmont. These rolls are typically filled with ground pork, beef or veal and mixed with breadcrumbs, cheese and herbs such as parsley and nutmeg. They are often baked in a tomato sauce or broth, similar to some Eastern European versions, but with the distinct addition of Italian seasonings such as garlic, oregano and sometimes Parmesan cheese.

Another Italian variation comes from southern regions like Sicily, where stuffed cabbage may incorporate Mediterranean flavors like raisins, pine nuts and pecorino cheese, giving the dish a sweet/savory contrast.

Japan also has its own version of stuffed cabbage, known as rōru kyabetsu (ロールキャベツ), which was introduced as part of the country’s embrace of Western cuisine (yōshoku) during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Unlike the heavily spiced or tomato-based versions found in Europe, Japanese stuffed cabbage is typically milder in flavor and served in a light broth.

The filling often consists of a mixture of ground pork and beef, sometimes blended with tofu for a softer texture. The rolls are simmered in a delicate consommé, dashi (Japanese stock) or a lightly seasoned soy sauce-based broth, emphasizing umami rather than strong acidity or spice. Some variations include adding a bit of ketchup or Worcestershire sauce for a hint of Western influence. It is commonly eaten as a home-cooked comfort food and occasionally appears in restaurant menus specializing in yōshoku dishes.

And it doesn’t stop there. In Brazil, stuffed cabbage (charuto de repolho) is a legacy of Lebanese immigrants, closely resembling Middle Eastern versions but often served with local Brazilian spices and side dishes like rice and farofa. The Swedish version, kåldolmar, is influenced by Turkish dolma and was introduced after King Charles XII’s time in the Ottoman Empire in the early 18th century. It is traditionally served with lingonberry jam, bringing a sweet contrast to the dish. While not common, variations exist in China, where cabbage-wrapped dumplings or meat-stuffed leaves are sometimes found in northern cuisine. Some versions are stir-fried rather than simmered.

And what of the version I made for you? Well, I make about 20 different types of stuffed cabbage. I do one with sea bass in a preserved lemon sauce, I do several versions in grape leaves, some in betel leaves that are grilled, I do my grandmother’s version in a sweet-and-sour tomato sauce, another with sauerkraut and on and on. So when I saw an Italian chef make a version with sausage, thin, caramelized potatoes and gorgonzola dolce, a sweet creamy gorgonzola absent the harsher spicy finish that some don’t care for, I was spun back 50 years to my first visit to the Italian Alps. I had eaten the dish many times there with my father and had never made it. That changed a few days ago, and after a few tries, I think it’s worthy of your table. And SOOOOOO easy.

Recipe: Stuffed Cabbage