Summer Dinner Made Simple: Spilled Milk #234

Four easy recipes inspired by global flavors. Plus: There's no paywall.

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In our poll a few months ago, many of you wanted “real” looks at what I cook at home. Well, all the other weekly Spilled Milk recipes are ones that I make for my family, there is no artifice here. But I know what some of you meant, so a few days ago I rummaged through the fridge and made dinner out of what I had on hand: some tri tip sirloins (I was hoping it was going to be lamb), some artichokes, an orzo-lemon pilaf, some tzatziki (because I thought I was going to have lamb) and a cucumber salad that can play well on our table every night of the week. So here is the whole menu, including a great marinade for any grilled protein.

But about the lamb…is there a more delicious meat than young lamb? Especially cooked on the grill, the fat content of the animal caramelizes so well. The cooked meat itself is so tender, succulent and flavorful. I adore lamb’s versatility and singularity.

I roast the necks for hours over indirect heat or in the oven, basting with whatever sauce I am in the mood for. The meat on the neck and shoulders is my favorite for tacos, tortas and BBQ sandwiches.

Shoulders and front legs I braise with red wine and mirepoix, then eat over polenta or tossed with pasta.

I braise shanks, ideally with Moroccan notes and served over couscous.

Saddles and chops are the luxury cuts. A quick rub with salt, some mustard and tarragon and grilled…or a classic rack with herbed mustard and bread crumbs laid on to roast after a hard sear to flavor the fat.

A whole grilled bone-in or boneless leg, let to rest and carved, is one of my favorite foods, top five. Mint jelly, please, AND a great jus along with it.

I learned to love lamb as a boy in Paris, on my first time there with my dad. I was seven. It was the spring of 1969. We landed in the morning, spent an easy day settling in at the Hotel George V and took an early dinner (the horror!) at Brasserie Lipp.

My dad always spoke in “musts.” “When you come to Lipp you must have the gigot roti if it is on the menu.” It was, and I inhaled it like a shipwrecked sailor seeing water for the first time. Tender baby legs of lamb roasted and sliced to order. Lamb that was just about to come off or had just come off the mother’s milk. The meat was the palest pink. Several years later in Spain I tried fresh-born whole roasted lamb where the whole animal is your portion. Conversely, my dad was a regular at Keens in NYC, so I was familiar with mutton—old barnyardy lamb. Loved that, too.

So why then is lamb so f***ing unpopular that no one carries it fresh anymore except for some bespoke butcher shops and the rarest of grocery stores? Lamb is a working man’s meat, FFS. I went to five markets in my town, and everyone had lamb legs and racks, ALL frozen, and they all said they could do other cuts via special order. So I had to grab some tri-tip sirloins of beef instead. Anyone else have a problem accessing lamb, or am I the last fan in these United States? I am steamed about this, for real.

Anyway, here you go, some easy recipes that I threw together on a whim—enjoy. The meat I marinated for a few hours and grilled, the artichokes I roasted. Next time I do that I am going to soak them in warm water beforehand so they cook faster and don’t get quite so dry.

Recipe: Summer Dinner Made Simple

Cucumber Salad

• 10 medium cucumbers, about 6 cups sliced in thin rounds

• Thinly sliced red onion, about 1 cup

• Stems from one bunch of dill

• 1 poblano pepper, sliced in thin julienne, stems and seeds discarded

• 1 cup sugar

• 2 cups white vinegar

Whisk together the sugar and vinegar until homogenous.

Toss together the cukes, onions and peppers and place in a 1 gallon Ziploc bag.

Add the liquid seasoning and seal well, occluding as much air as possible. Let sit for 2-3 hours in fridge and serve. Lasts for days!

Tzatziki

• 2 cups Greek yogurt

• 1 garlic clove, passed on a microplane

• Minced shallots

• Minced cucumber (squeezed gently to get out any water)

• Chopped dill

• Chopped mint

• Lemon juice

• Red wine vinegar

• Olive oil

Stir to combine and let sit in the fridge for a few hours before serving. Season with salt and pepper.

Marinade

• 1 large bunch parsley

• 1/2 cup olive oil

• 1/4 cup Ras el Hanout

• 2 cloves garlic

• 1 diced onion

• 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

• 2 teaspoons sea salt

• 1 teaspoon ground black pepper

Combine in a blender. Use on any meat, poultry or seafood item to marinate before grilling.

Orzo Pilaf

• 2 cups orzo

• 2 sprigs fresh thyme

• 4 tablespoons butter

• Zest and juice of 1 lemon

• 1 carrot, diced

• 1 yellow bell pepper, diced

• 4 cups chicken broth

Place the butter in a 4 quart pan.

Heat over medium heat until nut brown.

Add the orzo and toast it until you see at least half the pieces caramelize in the butter.

Add the pepper, carrot, thyme and zest and stir well, cooking for another minute or two.

Add the broth and half the lemon juice and bring to a boil.

Lower heat to maintain a simmer and cover.

Cook for 20 minutes, remove lid and stir well, adding half the lemon juice and turning off the heat.

Place cover back on and let rest for 10 minutes. Season well and serve.

Recipe: Summer Dinner Made Simple

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