The All-Time Best Pantry Pasta: Spilled Milk #279
Simple yet rich, this is my version of Pasta Aglio e Olio.
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Pasta Aglio e Olio is one of the classic cucina povera recipes of the Italian culinary canon. Originating from Naples, it stands as a bold icon of the simplicity and richness of Italian cuisine. The name translates to "pasta with garlic and oil," literally its primary ingredients. A lot of food historians believe the dish dates back to the early 20th century, but I think that’s a narrow-minded view. Pasta with oil and garlic and its variations have existed for as long as pasta, olive oil and garlic have been present in Italian kitchens.
Over the last 200 years or so, this dish has been typically made using just a few ingredients: spaghetti, garlic, olive oil, red pepper flakes and parsley, making it perfect for times when minimal supplies are available. That’s the essence of humble subsistence cooking (cucina povera), showcasing the Italian attitude toward cooking that emphasizes quality over quantity. The beauty of great food, regardless of country of origin, is when simple ingredients are transformed into extraordinary meals.
Today, in southern Italy, Pasta Aglio e Olio is often enjoyed as a late-night snack, particularly after a night out. Its preparation is quick, the ingredients are cheap, and the filling effect instantaneously takes the hunger from a late night out or too much partying…or both.
Now, traditionally, the garlic is sautéed in olive oil until it just starts to take on a golden sheen, then combined with the cooked pasta, a smidge of the pasta water and finished with a sprinkle of red pepper flakes and fresh parsley. Some cooks love to add a little bit of anchovy or cheese. Some add a few drops of lemon or lemon zest to cut the richness of the oil. I like to do it all, change it up frequently, and I have over the years been making the sauce with my immersion wand or in a blender for a silky and elegant version.
It is now far and away the best version of this dish I have tried. It’s INSANELY delicious and you will adore it. Guaranteed.
I use wine for the acid component, and I use the brief reduction to soften the garlic and remove its “sting.” I add the parsley in the sauce and blend it, allowing the pasta water to emulsify the olive oil. Remember: Oil and water won’t mix, but starchy pasta water and oil will emulsify beautifully with all the other ingredients. By not cooking the oil except to toss with the pasta, I get LOTS of great clean olive oil flavor. And all that can happen while you let your water come to a boil. This is the version I have landed on after years of making it.
Recipe: The All-Time Best Pantry Pasta
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