Portland, Maine, is a city that’s tethered to the ocean and everything it produces.

It’s the pearl of New England. Great food, an incredible art scene, a small-town vibe with big-city amenities. My dad, who passed away in 2015, called Portland home for the last 10 years of his life. I’d spend a lot of time visiting him and my stepdad Andre Laporte, and through their eyes I watched the city transform into the food destination it is today.

On a stroll with Dad in November 2015. Growing old is hard. I hope to do so with his grace and humility.

Though I’ve never lived there full time, Portland is one of the places I consider home, along with Minneapolis (where I’ve lived for 30 years) and New York, where I grew up. Whenever I’m in town, which is a few times a year during non-Covid times, I can barely cram in all the places I want to visit.

Here’s where you should eat breakfast, lunch, dinner and desert on your next visit.

Breakfast

Tandem Coffee

There will probably be a line out the door, but don’t let it deter you—this place is worth the wait. Order a loaded biscuit, which includes a nearly lethal schmear of butter and jam; savory scone or slice of banana and black sesame cake. The malted iced coffee is a local favorite. Grab a seat under the old gas station overhang, weather permitting. It’s the perfect way to start a day.

The Holy Donut

Open since 2010, this Old Port bakery that specializes in old fashioned potato doughnuts has expanded to its third location. So simple and delicious. I love the plain old fashioned, as well as the glazed fresh lemon iteration. The Holy Donut serves gluten-free doughnuts as well.

Standard Baking Co.

I’ve visited this place on Commercial Street almost every day that I’ve spent in Portland. My stepdad loved their baguettes and would buy them two at a time. I never leave without a box of breakfast pastries and two baguettes, even if I’m not quite sure when I’ll eat them (I always manage).

Becky’s Diner

Blueberry pancakes. Full stop. Breakfast here is old-school, filled early with local folks who work the boats and docks in the Old Port. Get what you like, but I have eaten only the superb pancakes the three dozen or so times I have been here.

The Porthole

The Porthole is nothing fancy, which is precisely why I love it. Open since 1929, this place started out as a quick place for lobstermen to grab breakfast. Today, you can still do a cheap and delicious breakfast (the English-muffin egg sandwich is $8 and comes with home fries) and deck views of the working waterfront. It also does a casual lunch or dinner—go and order selections from the raw bar, a lobster roll or steamed clams.

Lunch

Andrew Zimmern's Spilled Milk

Portland, Where Vacationland Is Delicious…

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