Where to Eat in Sicily, the Amalfi Coast and Naples.

Plus, my Amalfi Coast-inspired lemony chicken wing recipe.

Next up on Spilled Milk: Italy Week… Sicily, the Amalfi Coast and Naples.

So, now you have left Rome… where to next??? Here are some ideas.

As I mentioned yesterday, these recommendations are built up over the years from my personal experience, as well as some finely tuned research from friends. Many apologies to any I don’t acknowledge for their tips and recommendations. I have so many Italian lists from the last 20 years it’s like a jumble of info that I can barely figure out for myself. Too much cutting and pasting. Mea Culpa. Also, check to be sure places are open.

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Option 1: Sicily / Palermo / Marzamemi / Ragusa

A great next stop from Rome is Sicily, followed by a drive from Palermo to Marzamemi/Ragusa.

Hit the open-air markets like Vucciria, Ballarò and Mercato il Capo. You can shop for seasonal fruits and vegetables and eat arancini (fried rice balls), pane e panelle (sandwiches stuffed with chickpea fritters) and thick slices of sfincione (a type of focaccia usually topped with a sweet tomato sauce, onions and caciocavallo cheese).

Osteria MangiaeBevi

Another great place to try Palermo’s famous fritti is Francu U Vastidarru down by the port. For lunch, try Osteria Pane e Alivi  for spaghetti made with sundried tomatoes, olives, capers and sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Hit nearby Cappelo for a taste of Sicilian pastries including cannoli, cassate and other delicacies. In the evening, go to CiCala, a popular hangout for food and some local wine. You can stick around for artisanal pizzas and fresh pastas or walk around the block to Osteria Mangua e Bevi a trattoria with a unique version of Pasta alla Norma, spaghetti with tomato sauce, eggplant and fried cheese.

CiCala

Hit the road early one morning and drive to Ragusa. On the way, stop for a nice swim in the small town of Marzamemi. An ancient fishing village famous for its old “tonnara,” or tuna fishery, and oceanfront views, I love this place. When you arrive in Ragusa, check in to your accommodation and take a walk around the beautiful Ibla neighborhood, which is the older and lower region of town.

Spend the day at Vendicari Natural Reserve which is famous for the white sand beach of Calamosche, considered one of the most beautiful in Italy. This region is a UNESCO site that was mentioned by the poet Virgil in the Aeneid. Virgil knew what’s what.

Option 2: Exploring the Amalfi Coast

Don’t forget to head up to the hills above Ravello to Agerola and eat at Salumeria Cardone, or take a cooking class at Mama Agata’s. Or eat at Mimi’s.

Mimi’s -

I have travelled all over this stunning coastline, eating my way through as many restaurants as I could manage, and talking in my terrible Italian to the locals. This is the pick of some of my favorite places where the cooking is particularly special and the local/regional dishes are inspiring.

Try Da Adolfo in Positano. To reach it you have to get a little boat from the port in Positano. The restaurant serves local fish in the most stunning location right on the beach. Bring a towel.

Maria Grazia in Nerano is outside of Sorrento. This ramshackle little place on the beach is famous for their courgette pasta - they were the first to create the dish before the rest of the coast began making similar versions. The antipasti of stuffed peppers, parmigiana and tiny shrimp are superb.

Ristorante Mariagrazia Nerano

In Praiano, between Positano and Amalfi, stop by La Brace. A wood fired pizzeria with the view you always wanted.

In Sorrento, you’ll find Da Emilia at the Marina Grande. If it’s good enough for Sophia Loren, it’s good enough for me. Casual, blue and white checked cloths, the view of the port, and perfect seafood served with oil and local lemons.

In Ravello, go to Jackie O’s fave spots (mine too), like Mama Agata’s for a day of cooking and eating on a medieval farmhouse, and Cumpa’ Cosimo, just off the main plaza, they serve a plate of five hand made pasta that is beyond sublime.

La Tagliata in Montepertuso doesn’t have a menu. They make the pasta by hand every morning, the grilled meats and fish are without peer and the pistachio profiteroles are the stuff of legend…and you cant beat the view. The town also boasts Il Ritrovo, a superb casual fish house with an Acqua Pazza filled with local bass and chilies.

Bacco in the village of Furore.

Are you super flush and rented a house in Positano?…and the traffic is driving you crazy?? I know, that part of the coast is like the Hamptons. La Sponda at La Sirenuse is great as is Taverna del Leone.

And be sure to check out Furore, one of the most spectacularly beautiful places on the Amalfi Coast (visit this site for tips on getting there). Stay and eat at Bacco in the village of Furore. The food is stunning, and like almost all the places above they do cooking classes. The hotel/restaurant is 55-years-old and restaurants regulars read like a Hollywood who’s who. Get the linguine with anchovies and chilies.

Dine that night at Armandino… just order the pescato del giorno. There are always local shrimp on the menu, fished in Praiano and fried whole. And no matter what, go hit up Ristorante Lo Scoglio. Perched right over the beach, the best food and people watching. Heaven.

Option 3: Pizza in and Around Naples

Mattozzi - Naples

Attilio is beyond superb. Da Michele and Sorbillo are amazing but over run. And you can’t do excellence at that volume. Also, check out 50 Kalo, Antica Pizzeria e Friggitoria Di Matteo, Starita and Mattozzi.

And speaking of Naples…most people fly in, grab some pizza and head out. However, if you overdosed on pizza the night before, grab some seafood at Peschiera Mattiucci. They serve simple crudo, shellfish etc., at a local fish store. Another recommendation from Katie Parla that I adored.

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Amalfi Coast-Inspired Lemony Chicken Wings

Here’s a chicken wing recipe inspired by the Amalfi Coast, where lemons and colatura (anchovy sauce) are the flavors of the culture. I adapted this for chicken years ago from a squid recipe I loved. This recipe/technique is also delicious with fish cutlets, shrimp or any other fried yumminess. The magic is in the interplay of the sauce components: the colatura with its intense umami backbone mixes with the lemon and the sticky sweetness of the brown sugar to make this an ideal combo for your next wing fest.  Add some hot chiles to the marinade if you like things spicier.

A word about colatura: I use it in salad dressings, pasta sauces, marinades and braises—basically, anywhere I need some anchovy essence. It’s the Italian sister to South East Asia’s fish sauce family. I buy mine here. The stuff is AMAZING and incredibly versatile. Get some.

Watch me cook this recipe:

Ingredients

• 2 pounds chicken wings… I fry individual drummies and flats, and save the tips for stock.

• ¼ cup sherry wine vinegar

• 3 Tablespoons brown sugar

• 2 Tablespoons colatura 

• 1/3 cup very finely sliced scallions

• 2 cups potato starch. Not potato flour. (Tapioca starch or corn starch can work too but potato starch is king)

• 1 quart oil for frying

• 1/2 cup lemon juice

• 7 Tablespoons brown sugar (Or more to taste)

• 3 Tablespoons colatura

• Zest of 1 lemon

Instructions

Marinate the wings in the ¼ cup sherry vinegar, 3 T brown sugar, 2T colatura in a Zip loc bag for 3-24 hours. I find 24 hours is ideal.

Drain wings.

Heat oil in a wok (ideal shape for shallow frying).

Toss chicken with the scallions.

Dredge in the corn starch.

Fry in batches at 300 degrees for 10-12 minutes.

Drain on a grate with paper towel below it.

When all the wings are done, raise oil temp to 375 degrees.

Fry in batches a second time to get wings super crispy and darker, for about 3 minutes a batch.

Drain again.

Stir together the brown sugar, colatura, the zest and lemon juice. Taste for sweet/salt/sour balance and correct to your taste.

Tip away all the oil.

Return wok to heat.

Add the liquid and seasonings. Once bubbling and starting to get glaze-y, add all the wings and toss. Allow sauce to get really glossy and serve immediately.

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What’s your favorite region in Italy to explore? Share with the rest of us!